
National
Gemstone markets diamonds with GIA Grading Reports. The GIA was formed in 1931
and is a non-profit institution. They do not buy/sell or appraise diamonds.
They are an educational and research institute. Please note,
a diamond graded by a person who graduated from the GIA is not the same as a
GIA Grading Report. Do not buy a diamond from anyone who grades and sells it.
There is too much temptation to over-grade the diamond. The GIA operates like a
neutral intermediary between the buyers and sellers.
Shape and Cut
Each diamond is described as to its shape (round,
oval, pear, etc.) and its cut (brilliant, etc.)
Weight
Diamonds are weighed on an extremely accurate digital balance. One carat equals
100 points, which weigh 1/5 gram.
Proportions
The items in this category relate to the cut (or make) of the diamond:
Clarity
GIA Clarity Grading Scale
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IF |
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INTERNALLY
FLAWLESS |
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**Clarity
refers to the summation of the number, size and placement as well as the nature
of inclusions and/or surface irregularities. Flawless stones are diamonds free
of inclusions under 10X power. Internally flawless are
diamonds without any internal inclusions. VVS1 and VVS2 have extremely small
inclusions. VS1 and VS2 possess small inclusions. SI1 and SI2 have inclusions
that can be seen easily under 10X power magnification,
but are not usually visible to the naked eye. I1, I2, and I3 have large
inclusions that are visible to the naked eye.
Color Grade
GIA Color Grading Scale
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D..E..F |
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COLORLESS |
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**Color
refers to the absence of color in a diamond. The less yellow within the
diamond, the higher on the alphabetical scale the diamond will be graded.
Colorless diamonds are D-F, near colorless are G-J, faint yellow are K-M, very
light yellow are N-R. S-Z are light yellow.
Fluorescence
Fluorescence describes the degree of sensitivity of a diamond to long wave
ultraviolet radiation. Diamonds have been known to fluoresce in a variety of colors, such as pale blue,
green, yellow, and rarely red.
**Please be aware of the
following:
Some Diamonds may have what is called a "natural." There is nothing
"natural" about it. A small portion of the original Diamond crystal
surface is left unpolished on the girdle of the gemstone. This area, which is
called a "natural," indicates that little material was wasted in
cutting to obtain a heavier carat weight. Its presence is not desirable on a
polished Diamond.
Fancy
Colored Diamonds
How Do Naturally
Colored Diamonds Get Their Colors?
Diamonds with 100% natural
color can be found in all colors of the rainbow. Their colors are caused by
trace impurities of other minerals, exposure to radioactive minerals, or by irregular
growth patterns within the crystal. Some of the most popular natural colors are
shades and combinations of pink, blue, brown, yellow, orange, green, red, and
all kinds of hues in-between. A few examples of how they get their colors are listed below.
***A variety of colors can be produced by irradiation or by artificial
bombardment of electrons or neutrons. Electron bombardment produces a blue color, while neutron bombardment
produces a green color. In turn, the enhanced blue and green colors can then be heat treated, which changes their color to
yellow or brown. With the popularity and demand for colored Diamonds, many
artificially colored Diamonds are being sold as “natural.” As with any Diamond
you are buying, make sure you know what you are buying! The naturally colored
Diamonds are very expensive, so if the price seems too cheap, it’s probably
artificially colored. Caveat Emptor!
Fancy Yellow
Diamonds (Canary Yellow and Other Similar Hues)
Fancy Yellow Diamonds owe their color to the presence of Nitrogen
and/or Hydrogen impurities, which absorb the blue end
of the color spectrum. Inclusions of Iron may also yield a yellow colored Diamond.
Brown/Cognac
Diamonds (
These Diamonds also owe their color to Nitrogen and/or Hydrogen
impurities. Inclusions of Iron may also yield brown colored Diamonds. They come in many different shades
of brown.
Pink
Diamonds (Pink, Lilac, Purple Hues)
The pink color within these rare Diamonds is due to irregular
crystal growth patterns, which cause microscopic imperfections within the
lattice structure. Inclusions of Manganese may also yield pink and red colored Diamonds.
Green
Diamonds (Green, Yellowish-Green, Grayish-Green Hues)
Green Diamonds owe their hue to millions of years of exposure to
naturally occurring gamma and/or neutron radiation, and are typically found in
alluvial secondary deposits. Most Green Diamonds are actually a
yellowish-green, grayish-green, or a combination of the two. They may also have
come into contact with radioactive minerals, such as Uranium, through natural
irradiation of the earth.
Blue
Diamonds (Sky Blue, Rich Deep Blue Hues)
These beautiful shades of blue owe their colors to trace
impurities of Boron. The blues are the most frequently irradiated colors found
on the market. Be aware of what you are buying!
Chameleon
Diamonds (Pleochroic ~ Color Change Diamonds)
These are very rare olive-grayish color changing, or pleochroic Diamonds. Because of their color changing
properties they are referred to as “Chameleon Diamonds.” Their color changes hue from grayish-blue or
olive-green to yellowish-green or straw-yellow under different lighting conditions,
lighting color temperatures, and/or ambient temperature changes. Chameleon Diamonds
can be made to temporarily change color to a yellowish-green by exposing them
to heat (150º C to 250º C), or by short-term storage (up to 24 hours) in total
darkness. Exposure to direct sunlight will bring out the olive-green color. The
color change effect is temporary, and will totally reverse itself when the conditions
re-stabilize. You can do this process over and over again with the same results,
just as you can with Alexandrite. It is believed that the color changing effect
is due to a higher than normal amount of hydrogen impurities.
Round Diamond Sizes and Variable Weights**
**Not all diamonds are cut correctly, so there may be differences between the standard, or ideal sizes and carat weights. This occurs when a diamond is cut too deeply or too shallow. Improper cutting may also interfere with the brilliance of the stone, as the light cannot reflect back properly. Below are two tables showing the differences between the millimeter sizes and the carat weights of diamonds on average. There is also an illustration below showing the differences in how the light can or cannot reflect back properly in a stone cut improperly.
Diamonds Weighing .01-.50 Carats
|
Carat Size |
|
|
|
.01 |
.0071-.012 |
1.2-1.4 |
|
.015 |
.013-.017 |
1.5 |
|
.02 |
.0175-.023 |
1.61-1.75 |
|
.03 |
.026-.035 |
1.9-1.95 |
|
.04 |
.036-.045 |
2.0-2.2 |
|
.05 |
.046-.065 |
2.25-2.4 |
|
.07 |
.066-.085 |
2.55-2.7 |
|
.10 |
.086-.115 |
2.85-3.0 |
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.12 |
.116-.135 |
3.1-3.2 |
|
.15 |
.14-.17 |
3.25-3.5 |
|
.20 |
.18-.22 |
3.6-4.0 |
|
.25 |
.23-.27 |
3.9-4.3 |
|
.33 |
.30-.35 |
4.2-4.6 |
|
.40 |
.38-.43 |
4.5-4.9 |
|
.50 |
.48-.55 |
4.9-5.3 |
Diamonds Weighing .60-1.50 Carats
|
Carat Size |
Approximate Millimeter Size |
|
.60-.65 |
5.5-5.6 |
|
.75 |
5.8-6.0 |
|
.85 |
6.0-6.4 |
|
1.00 |
6.3-6.5 |
|
1.25 |
6.8-7.0 |
|
1.50 |
7.2-7.5 |
Diamonds Weighing 2.0-7.0 Carats
|
Carat Size |
Approximate Millimeter Size |
|
2.0 |
8.0-8.2 |
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3.0 |
9.35-10.0 |
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4.0 |
10.3-10.8 |
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5.0 |
11.0-11.5 |
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6.0 |
11.75-12.0 |
|
7.0 |
12.4-12.6 |
*Table 3 Courtesy of
“Gems and Jewelry” by Joel E Arem and "Tripps Manufacturing"
**Of course there are many other variations in sizes and weights in-between those listed above.
Famous
Large Diamonds
|
Carats |
Color |
Name |
Origin |
|
530.20 |
White |
Cullinan I |
|
|
407.48 |
Yellow |
Un-Named |
|
|
317.40 |
White |
Cullinan II |
|
|
280.00 |
White |
Great Mogul |
|
|
277.00 |
White |
Nizam |
|
|
250.00 |
Pink |
Great Table |
|
|
245.35 |
White |
Jubilee |
|
|
234.50 |
Yellow |
Debeers |
|
|
228.50 |
Yellow |
|
|
|
205.00 |
Yellow |
Red Cross |
|
|
202.00 |
Black |
Black Star |
|
|
189.60 |
White |
Orloff |
|
|
185.00 |
Pink |
Darya-I-Nur ( |
|
|
184.50 |
White |
|
|
|
150.00 |
White |
Light of Peace |
|
|
150.00 |
White |
Darya-I-Nur ( |
|
|
140.50 |
White |
Regent |
|
|
137.27 |
Yellow |
Florentine |
|
|
128.51 |
Yellow |
Tiffany |
|
|
127.02 |
White |
Portugese |
|
|
125.65 |
White |
Jonker |
|
|
108.83 |
White |
Koh-I-Noor |
|
|
94.40 |
White |
Cullinan III |
|
|
71.73 |
White |
|
|
|
70.20 |
White |
Idol’s Eye |
|
|
69.42 |
White |
Taylor-Burton |
|
|
67.89 |
|
|
|
|
60.00 |
Pink |
Nur-Al-Ain |
|
|
55.00 |
White |
Sancy |
|
|
45.52 |
Blue |
Hope |
|
|
41.00 |
Green |
|
|
|
35.32 |
Blue |
Wittelsbach |
|
|
31.00 |
Blue |
Eugenie Blue |
|
|
23.60 |
Pink |
Williamson |
|
|
12.42 |
White |
Uncle Sam |
|
Courtesy of “Gems and Jewelry” by Joel Arem
**Chemically
Diamonds are pure Carbon, the same as Graphite, a soft mineral used in pencils.
The dramatically different properties of the two minerals are caused by the chemical
bonding of Carbon atoms. The atoms are bonded strongly in Diamonds, and weakly
in Graphite. Diamonds are extremely stable under ordinary conditions, but
unlike other crystalline gemstones, when they are heated to red hot in air they
will literally vanish to form carbon dioxide.
The Anatomy
of a Gemstone
**The above illustrations show
the Round Brilliant Cut faceted gemstone. It is the most modern, ideal, and popular cut for Diamonds. It was
developed in 1910 and has the following characteristics: a round girdle, at least 32 facets on the crown and table,
at least 24 facets, and sometimes a culet (a very small facet at the point) on the pavilion. It may also
be referred to as the Tolkowsky Brilliant Cut. This round cut must have 57-58 total facets to be called a
Round Brilliant Cut. Other popular Diamond and gemstone cuts are shown on my Gemstone Grading GIA
web page.
Properly and
Improperly Faceted Diamonds Illustration**
**As seen in the above
illustration, a gem properly proportioned with respect to its refractive index
will reflect back the light that enters it, yielding maximum brilliance.
Light leaks out of a gem cut too shallow or too deep, diminishing its
brilliance. Please see my "Gemstone Clarity Grades GIA, Mohs
Hardness Scale & Much More" page for an illustration of gemstone cuts and how the light passing through
a clear gemstone reacts when it is cut properly.
**If
the images and/or text on any of the web pages do not appear evenly spaced and
centered on your screen, which commonly occurs with AOL pages, maximize the individual
page's window.
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